Before starting, shut off cold water supply to unit. If changing filters on the Reverse Osmosis unit, lift the handle on the R.O. faucet to drain out the storage tank completely and allow the system to stand for 10 minutes in order to fully decompress the tank. Some of the R.O. water should be saved in a pitcher or clean bucket for cleaning and rinsing.

Remove prefilter housings by twisting and rotating them left, or counter clockwise. If the housings are too tight, a filter wrench may be necessary.
Slide out used filters and discard, but save "O" rings for re-use.
Wash out inside of all housings with a mild soap solution and then rinse with R.O. water.
Lube "O" ring with a water-soluble lubricant (such as K-Y Jelly) and replace in groove in blue filter housing.
Insert new filters into appropriate housings.
Follow the normal Start-up Procedures.

How Do I Change The Membrane?

Before starting, shut off cold water supply to unit. If changing filters on the Reverse Osmosis unit, lift the handle on the R.O. faucet to drain out the storage tank completely and allow the system to stand for 10 minutes in order to fully decompress the tank. Some of the R.O. water should be saved in a pitcher or clean bucket for cleaning and rinsing.

Caution: Your membrane is treated with a biocidal solution to prevent and retard the growth of bacteria. Please use care when handling and make sure not to drink water from the first tank produced after membrane replacement. Make sure to shut off the water supply and drain the unit as if you were changing the filters. Also make sure to save some of the R.O. water for rinsing.

Disconnect the GREEN tube from the membrane housing.
Unscrew the large end of the membrane housing.
Slide out the used membrane and discard.
Clean and flush out the inside of the membrane housing using R.O. water.
Insert new membrane, making sure it is fully seated into the bottom end.
Screw cap back onto the housing, making sure "O" ring is still in place. The "O" ring may need to be lubricated with a water-soluble lubricant.
Re-connect the GREEN tube.
Follow the below Sanitization Procedure for start up.
If the system is only used infrequently, drain the tank at least once a week.

How Do I Start Up The Unit?

Disconnect the GREEN tube at the automatic shut-off valve and place in a bucket.
Turn on cold water supply and allow water to flow into bucket until clear. Turn off incoming water supply.
Reconnect green tube to automatic shut-off valve.
Turn on cold water supply valve and the under sink water valve.
Open R.O. faucet. (Move the black lever to the "up" position).
Check the system for leaks. In the event of a leak, the cold water supply can be turned off and the leaking item tightened.
After about 20 minutes, or when water is dripping out of the R.O. faucet, flip the handle to the closed position. It will now take between 6 and 10 hours for the tank to fill, based on your local water temperature and pressure.

Caution: Do not drink the water from the first tank produced by your newly purchased system or newly replaced membrane.
After the tank is full (you will hear no water running to the tank), flush the system by placing the R.O. Faucet in open position until the water is completely discharged from the storage tank.
Upon complete discharge of the storage tank, flip the handle to the closed position and let the tank refill. This process may take another 6 to 10 hours.
Check for leaks daily for the first week and periodically thereafter.

What Is The Annual Sanitization Procedure?

We recommend sanitizing the R.O. system at least once a year. The best time to do this is while changing your filters. First, shut down the system in the same manner as with a Filter Change. Drain the system, including the tank, and then disconnect the blue tubing from the shut-off valve to the tank. Put about ¼ to ½ teaspoon of Hydrogen Peroxide or household bleach into this tube, using an eyedropper for best results. Reconnect the blue tube to the shut-off valve and follow normal start-up procedures, including draining the tank. If you have an icemaker hook-up installed, be sure the ball valve in the line to the refrigerator is in the closed position during this procedure.

+ Directional Flow of Reverse Osmosis Model

+ Low Or Slow Water Production

+ Milky Colored Water

+ Water Constantly Running (Won't Shut Off)

+ Noise From Faucet Or Drain

+ Faucet Leaks From Air Gap

+ Minimal Water In Storage Tank

+ Water Tastes Or Smells Funny

+ Leaks From Unit Or Filter Bowls

+ 4 And 5 Stage Annual Sanitation Procedure

Directional Flow of Reverse Osmosis Model

Low Or Slow Water Production

This may be caused by low water pressure, crimps in the tubing, clogged pre-filters, or a fouled membrane.

» If the water pressure is below 40psi, a booster pump may be necessary.

» How old is the unit? If your unit is NEW (less than 3mos)

· Check your incoming water pressure

· Check each fitting to see if the water flows at the proper rate to that point. After you pinpoint the exact place the water stops or slows down considerably, contact the customer service department for troubleshooting support and possible warranty replacement.

· If you hooked your new unit up to tee off and supply water to your ice-maker, be sure the ice-maker is in the off position when the tank is trying to fill. (Each ice-maker line should have a ball valve installed to close whenever the water in the storage tank has been depleted. The back pressure is needed to let the tank fill.)

If your unit is OLDER than 6mos???..

· It may be time for a filter change/When was your last filter change? If the pr-filters are clogged they will need to be replaced.

· How old is the membrane? If the membrane is clogged the first indication is usually a slow down in the production of water. Sending a water sample to us would let us determine the actual rate the membrane is working. (1/2 cp of tap water and ½ cp of reverse osmosis water) We will let you know if replacement is required.

Again, finding out exactly where the water actually stops or slows down is important for us to know how to help you or how to determine which part needs replacing.

Milky Colored Water

This is caused by air in the system. This is a normal occurrence with the start-up of a Reverse Osmosis System. The milky look will disappear with normal use during the first 1-2 weeks. This condition can also happen after filter changes, but can usually be solved by draining the tank 1 or 2 times.

Water Constantly Running (Won't Shut Off)

This may be caused by low water pressure, a crimp in the supply line, or high water pressure.

If the water pressure is below 40 psi, a booster pump may be necessary.
If there are crimps in the tubing, straighten or repair them as necessary.
If the water pressure is above 85 psi, a pressure relief valve may be necessary.

Noise From Faucet Or Drain

This can be caused by the air gap faucet, the location of the drain saddle, a restriction in the drain tube, or water pressure in excess of 85 psi.

Some noise is caused on start-up or after filter changes by air being purged from the system. Once the air is expelled from the unit (usually after about 5 minutes) this noise should subside.
Although the air-gap faucet inherently makes some noise, this can be amplified if the water running from the drain saddle splashes into the water in the sink trap. This noise can be reduced by either moving the drain saddle to a greater height, or by securing a fishing line through the drain saddle and down into the sink trap, allowing the water to run down the side of the drain pipe.
A restriction in the drain tube can be caused by debris from the dishwasher or garbage disposal. The tube can be unclogged by removing it and cleaning it with a wire or coathanger.
If the water pressure is above 85 psi, a pressure regulator may be required.

Faucet Leaks From Air Gap

This can be caused by a crimp in the drain line, a restriction in the drain line, or a clogged drain tube.

If there is a crimp in the drain line, check and straighten out the tubing.
If the drain line is not straight, it can cause leakage from the faucet. Remove the drain line, check for blockage (which can be removed with a coat hanger) and make sure the connection between the drain and drain saddle is as short and straight as possible. The drain line can be trimmed if there are any dips or loops where water might settle.
The drain line can also become clogged by the dishwasher, garbage disposal, or even the impurities removed by the RO unit. To fix this, disconnect the line and clean it out with a wire before re-connecting.

Minimal Water In Storage Tank

This can be caused by system start-up, low water pressure, excessive air in the water tank bladder, or a faulty check valve.

If the system is just starting, wait 6-10 hours for the tank to fill. Low water temperatures and pressures can also reduce the production rate.
If the water pressure is below 40 psi, a booster pump may be necessary.
Excessive air in the tank bladder or air cushion can squeeze the space designed for the water. Using a tire pressure gauge, check to see that the pressure is between 5 and 7 psi (tank should be free of any water). If the pressure is higher, bleed the tank air until it is at the 5 and 7 psi pressure level. This test should only be done when the tank is empty.
A faulty check valve can also cause a small amount of water in the tank. To check this, do not use any water from the RO unit for 24 hours, then check the water flow to the drain in the morning before any water flows through the house.

Storage tank exploded view..

Water Tastes Or Smells Funny

This can be caused by clogged prefilters, fouled membranes, or a failure to annually sanitize the unit.

If the prefilters are clogged, replace the prefilters after washing the inside of all the housings out with a mild detergent and rinsing them out with RO water, if possible.
If you think the membrane may be fouled, have the water tested, and if the membrane is fouled, then replace it after cleaning the membrane housing with a mild detergent and rinsing it out.
If you have not sanitized your system in the past year, follow the procedure at the bottom of the page.

Leaks From Unit Or Filter Bowls

Leaks can be caused by loose fittings, a missing, damaged, or improperly seated O-Ring, or an improperly inserted plastic ferrule on the brass fitting.

If the fittings are not tightened, then carefully re-tighten the fittings.
If the O-ring is missing or damaged then contact a dealer or Premier for a replacement.
If the O-Ring is out of round, make sure the O-Ring is properly lubricated and inserted into its housing before replacing the housing.
If the plastic ferrules are inserted backwards, remove and re-orient them, making sure the tapered end points toward the valve.

4 And 5 Stage Annual Sanitation Procedure

Yearly sanitation is recommended on all of our RO systems. The best time to do this is when you are changing your filters. Drain the system, including the tank, then disconnect the blue tubing from the shut-off valve to the tank. Put approximately ¼ to ½ teaspoon of Hydrogen Peroxide or common household bleach into this tube. If you use an eyedropper, this will be easier. Reconnect the blue tube to the shut-off valve and follow normal start-up procedures, including draining the tank. If you have an icemaker hookup installed, be sure to close the ball valve in the line to the refrigerator or turn off the icemaker until the peroxide or bleach is flushed from the unit.

WATTS Premier 5 Stage Reverse Osmosis Water Purification Membranes

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